Colorful Hand Dyeing Techniques of Rajasthan

Rangeelo Rajasthan (Colorful Rajasthan) is truly so for the jewellery crafted there, the paintings created, and most of all the art of dyeing clothes! We have all heard of bandhni or bandhej (tie-and-dye), which is a 5000-year-old colorful hand-dyeing technique of Rajasthan. All regions of Rajasthan follow different forms of bandhej and are home to most fashion houses today. Some places that are most popular for their hand printing and hand dyeing techniques include Jaipur, Barmer, Sikar, Pali, Jodhpur, and Bikaner.

The art of bandhej has been justifiably used across forms and materials to create a play of tradition and modernity; of art and intelligence. Most other forms of dyeing follow this traditional process.

Woman engrossed in the art

 

Tie and Dye

Traditionally, the colors used in tie and dye were extracted from plants, flowers, leaves and barks. Today, clean and non-transferable colors are used to make clothing that is more fashionable, usable and long lasting. In tie and dye, natural fabrics are dyed in various hues to create interesting patterns. The cloth is crumpled and pleated in patterns and then tied with a thread to define a desired pattern. Cotton and silk are the two most popular materials used in this art. Synthetic materials are unable to absorb natural dye, which makes tie and dye a challenging and exciting art.

Lehariya or Mothda

Lehariya or Mothda is a special tie-and-dye technique that is used to create rippled patterns of various colors. This art is particularly popular on white and is also used to make odhnis and turbans. Lehariya is a favorite among the royal clan of Rajputs, particularly on special occasions. Mothda, on the other hand, presents a chequered pattern with opposite diagonals.   

Lehariya dupattas are available in many hues

Shikari

The Shikari form of dyeing includes depictive pictures—usually of man and animal—representing the tribes of Rajasthan. Shikari is use extensively to create elegant and colorful saris. 

Ekdali

Ekdali is possibly the most intricate printing of all tie and dyes. It comprises small circles and squares in different shades of one or more colors. This is popular in the Sikar and Jodhpur regions of Rajasthan.

Block Printing

Block printing involves the use of blocks to print on cloth. The blocks are carved to create interesting patterns and images, of which the paisley is the most prominent. Bright vegetable colors are used in block printing.

A more exclusive form of block printing is the art of Khari, where gold is included in the prints to create a more exciting piece of art.

Ajrakh

This technique of hand dyeing is possibly the most complex one that combines tie and dye with block printing to create a unique effect. This is a four-step process that includes washing the fabric, dyeing with a mordant, applying resist to the print, and finally, conditioning the cloth.

Bagru

Bagru has recently become the centre of all creative attraction because of the eco-friendly dyes used in this art, create hand block printed designs.