The Unique Artwork of Lehariya

Lehariya Sari

A colourful display of Rajasthani art, Lehariya is a wavy pattern of the tie and dye technique. This bright art is really popular with the chiffon brigade in Rajasthan. It involves creating rippled, flowing patterns in multi colours. A two-step process, tie and dye involves tying the cloth and dipping it in selected colors, which results in innovative artwork pattern known as Lehariya. Few people know that traditionally, lehariya contains five colours, which is a representation of the Rajasthani system of colouring.

When the skilled hands of traditional Lehariya craftsmen get to work, they are able to give us an elegant combination of striped patterns that can be used as an apparel or accessory. Leheriya artwork results in diagonal patterns, which present an aesthetic look to the garment. Lehariya looks truly royal when it is done on an elegant white background.

Changing fashion trends have forced Lehariya artwork to get innovative. Therefore, the focus these days is not so much on traditional patterns. Instead, artists are successfully experimenting with new techniques to create different patterns such as dyed stripes or matching zari artwork that add to the elegance of the fabric. Lehariya artwork presents an innovative look to the sarees with its intricate maze of patterns, which could be horizontal, diagonal or both!

Lehariya has become extremely popular as part of high-end Asian fashion because of its intricate work, touch of tradition, and glamour appeal. The longer this process takes, the more stunning your outfit is! Couple it with some junk jewelry and you are set to look nothing short of gorgeous!

Lehariya dupattas are particularly in vogue and are being worn with suits as well as denims. With the younger generation being a voracious admirer of this artwork, the age-old technique of tie and dye has risen to its name and has managed to create ripples in the evolving fashion market.

Merchants in various lehariya-producing centers of Rajasthan such as Jodhpur, Jaipur, and Udaipur create turbans in interesting colours and patterns. Leheriya artworkers use the method of resist dyeing where the silk or chiffon to be used in the process is rolled across opposite corners. Threads that are used to create an intricate art pattern are tied at varying lengths, which results in lehariya’s wave patterns. Artists vary the thickness of the stripes by altering the breadth of the thread that is tied. To get it absolutely right on all stripes is a challenge!

Multi-coloured stripes are created by leaving sections of the fabric tied after the first bleach. Lehariya patterns such as Mothda, Panchranga and Satranga have gained accolades worldwide because of their impeccable art patterns, which are based on a portrayal of Hindu mythology characters on the fabric.

Leheriya artworkers have evolved with the changing times and have diversified into offering multiple products such as scarves, skirts and bags. Pure silk lehariya scarves with a horizontal maze of designs have become popular among a fashion-conscious generation as well. Grab your lehariya to make a statement of your own!

Colorful Hand Dyeing Techniques of Rajasthan

Rangeelo Rajasthan (Colorful Rajasthan) is truly so for the jewellery crafted there, the paintings created, and most of all the art of dyeing clothes! We have all heard of bandhni or bandhej (tie-and-dye), which is a 5000-year-old colorful hand-dyeing technique of Rajasthan. All regions of Rajasthan follow different forms of bandhej and are home to most fashion houses today. Some places that are most popular for their hand printing and hand dyeing techniques include Jaipur, Barmer, Sikar, Pali, Jodhpur, and Bikaner.

The art of bandhej has been justifiably used across forms and materials to create a play of tradition and modernity; of art and intelligence. Most other forms of dyeing follow this traditional process.

Woman engrossed in the art

 

Tie and Dye

Traditionally, the colors used in tie and dye were extracted from plants, flowers, leaves and barks. Today, clean and non-transferable colors are used to make clothing that is more fashionable, usable and long lasting. In tie and dye, natural fabrics are dyed in various hues to create interesting patterns. The cloth is crumpled and pleated in patterns and then tied with a thread to define a desired pattern. Cotton and silk are the two most popular materials used in this art. Synthetic materials are unable to absorb natural dye, which makes tie and dye a challenging and exciting art.

Lehariya or Mothda

Lehariya or Mothda is a special tie-and-dye technique that is used to create rippled patterns of various colors. This art is particularly popular on white and is also used to make odhnis and turbans. Lehariya is a favorite among the royal clan of Rajputs, particularly on special occasions. Mothda, on the other hand, presents a chequered pattern with opposite diagonals.   

Lehariya dupattas are available in many hues

Shikari

The Shikari form of dyeing includes depictive pictures—usually of man and animal—representing the tribes of Rajasthan. Shikari is use extensively to create elegant and colorful saris. 

Ekdali

Ekdali is possibly the most intricate printing of all tie and dyes. It comprises small circles and squares in different shades of one or more colors. This is popular in the Sikar and Jodhpur regions of Rajasthan.

Block Printing

Block printing involves the use of blocks to print on cloth. The blocks are carved to create interesting patterns and images, of which the paisley is the most prominent. Bright vegetable colors are used in block printing.

A more exclusive form of block printing is the art of Khari, where gold is included in the prints to create a more exciting piece of art.

Ajrakh

This technique of hand dyeing is possibly the most complex one that combines tie and dye with block printing to create a unique effect. This is a four-step process that includes washing the fabric, dyeing with a mordant, applying resist to the print, and finally, conditioning the cloth.

Bagru

Bagru has recently become the centre of all creative attraction because of the eco-friendly dyes used in this art, create hand block printed designs.